WATCH お役立ち情報 解説

Bvlgari Watch Complete Guide | How to choose a BVLGARI watch recommended by the active manager!

What kind of image do you think of when you hear a Bvlgari watch ?


unique design

luxury watch

that's cool


Bvlgari has various charms such as.

On the one hand,



"It's cool, but what about quality?"
"What kind of person wears a Bvlgari watch?"
“I wonder if I can wear a super-brand watch on a regular basis.”



We often receive questions such as:

This time, we would like to introduce the charm of the Italian super brand "Bvlgari watches" from the perspective of the manager of a specialty store.


The one and only brand that Italy is proud of [BVLGARI Bvlgari]



Nice to meet you, I'm Yamamoto from I-I-Isuzu.
Let's start with a quick overview of the brand.

Bvlgari continues to fascinate the world with its exquisite jewelry, which is counted as one of the world's five major jewelers , as well as popular watches, perfumes, wallets, and other attractive gems.

In recent years, the hotel business has also become a hot topic.

In the first place, "enjoying life" is Bvlgari's DNA , and it enriches the hearts of people all over the world every day.

Also, I think that the tie-ups with other brands and the selection of ambassadors are really wonderful .

I think that it is a brand that can definitely propose "current coolness" .

In Japan, Bvlgari also appointed Kōki, the second daughter of Takuya Kimura and Shizuka Kudo, as an ambassador for the first time.

I can only say that the height of the antenna and the foresight are too amazing!

As for watches, they are loved by fans all over the world as a masterpiece that combines bold Italian design with high Swiss technology.



This time,

① About the Bvlgari watch from the perspective of the watch shop staff

② Introduction of each series

③ Brand history

④ Fusion of Italian design and Swiss technology ~Until a one-of-a-kind product is made~


I will introduce it in the flow.

Then we introduce charm of Bvlgari watch immediately.




Bvlgari watches from the perspective of a watch store staff



First of all, regarding Bvlgari watches, how do you usually start talking with customers?

Of course, I came to see the Bvlgari watch directly! There are also customers, but there are many things that I will introduce from here.

Bvlgari for some? You may think that

In particular, the <Octo> collection has high specs that will appeal to customers who like mechanical watches who come to I-I-Isuzu on a regular basis, and the good design is added to that. I'm talking to you.

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo

In fact, I think Octo is a product that has a lot to say about it even if it's not Finissimo.

It is a case cut of 110 facets

Lacquer finish that applies multiple layers to the dial

"Even prestigious mechanical watch brands don't go that far."

Rather than a mechanical watch, which is a traditional Swiss craft, I think it is a watch that has an artistic meaning overlaid on it.

On the mechanical side , the Octo movement is actually highly regarded in Switzerland, where it has won numerous awards.

However, if you look at the goodness of pure machines, it is a little different from Lange & Söhne and Patek Philippe, which follow traditional techniques.

It's a movement that was developed to embody the best design , but the more I know about it, the more I can think of some automaker's slogan, "I'll do it, BVLGARI."



How do I feel when I see someone actually wearing Bvlgari?

Excuse me from the point of view of a watch shop salesperson,

Now, when I see a person wearing a Bvlgari watch, I feel "room" .

What does this mean,

Especially for male customers, "watch buyers" and "watch lovers" usually come from watch manufacturers and say, "It has to be a watch manufacturer."

I think many people avoid Bvlgari because it is a jewelry brand.

After understanding all of that, I think the "comfort" that you're wearing is really cool.

In the end, I think that just wearing it is connected to the coolness of that person.

The design is cool, isn't it Bvlgari? I always say , "It's really a waste" to avoid it.

Of course, I think that there are many people who are not satisfied with just that (design alone).

However, many of our customers have a certain amount of watches, so I think the coolest thing is the "comfort" to choose Bvlgari on top of that.


BVLGARI Aluminum Advertising image at the time of launch Advertising image at the time of release

"Bvlgari Diver" and "aluminum" were all the rage once in the latter half of the 1990s.

At that time, I felt that I was completely addicted to the sex appeal of the customer group, who looked good on my pretentiousness.

Actually, there was an image that suits the city at night lol



I think that Bvlgari now has more suggestions for adults than suggestions for those who are sensitive to such trends.

In terms of looking for coolness, it's the same as back then.
Instead of a pretentious image or a cool image, now

I think that there is a "sophisticated coolness" that is not "exactly" .

This is what I often tell when I talk to male customers.

Next is what I tell you when I talk to a female customer.



A lot of men are particular about their watches, but I get the impression that many of our female customers aren't that particular about watches.

The most common customer response is, "I'm here to see a good watch for the first time."

Personally, I think it's good to have an established design (identity)

To put it simply, I want people to choose a watch whose design has not changed over the decades.

I think the reason why the design hasn't changed for decades is that it 's an excellent design that people of all ages find beautiful .

So, a ladies' watch with such an unchanging design,

    • Cartier Tank Francaise

    • BVLGARI BVLGARI BVLGARI

    • Chanel J12



It's about...

When I look at the products, most of them are jewelry brands.

Brands with high design capabilities have a level of quality that cannot be imitated by watch manufacturers, and I think they can have an “unchanging brilliance” .

Honestly, all of them are "masterpieces"!


Among them, the goodness of Bvlgari is more than the French brand,
There is "coolness that is not safe" that attacked one or two steps .

For those who have been interested in watches for a long time, Bvlgari Bvlgari may be a familiar design, but I think there is "something" that is different from other brands.

In fact, there aren't many watch brands in Italy .

If it's a major, it's about Panerai.

That's why I always feel that Italian design brings out the personality of the owner .


And I think that the brand itself, Bvlgari, has a great sense of style.

Having a Bvlgari watch will enhance your taste.
Even looking at past tie-up models and ambassadors' choices, I think it's amazing how much attention is paid to them.

For example, the limited model with Maserati in 2014, and the collaboration model with All Blacks in 2015!

The Bvlgari Octo All Blacks was created to commemorate the partnership with New Zealand's national rugby union team, the All Blacks.
Bvlgari Octo Maserati Chronograph (2014)

Maserati's 100th anniversary collaboration watch "Bvlgari Octo Maserati Chronograph"
Bvlgari Octo All Blacks (2015)


I'm going there "now"! Too soon! I thought at the time,
Now, the greatness of this collaboration model resonates more with us.

Also, the choice of partners or ambassadors is amazing,

The collaboration model with Tadao Ando and last year's Hiroshi Fujiwara is really cool!


Tadao Ando x Bvlgari Octo Finissimo
Tadao Ando x Bvlgari Octo Finissimo (2019)

"Bulgari Bulgari", the icon of "Bulgari" in collaboration with Hiroshi Fujiwara's "FRAGMENT DESIGN"
FRAGMENT x BVLGARI BVLGARI BVLGARI Japan Limited Model (2020)





BVLGARI BVLGARI BVLGARI FRAGMENT Japan limited model

BVLGARI (Bulgari) Bulgari Bulgari man watch 103443

"FRAGMENT x BVLGARI Bulgari Bulgari Japan Limited Edition" was created by bringing Hiroshi Fujiwara's innovative approach to the core of Bvlgari's watchmaking technology.
Click here for product details



Mr. Fujiwara's model is based on Bvlgari Bvlgari, but I was really impressed by the design sense that can be changed with just a twist.

I was surprised that just adding a few twists could make it look so cool.

Bvlgari knows "what's cool now" ,
I think that it is the only manufacturer that can properly shape it and propose it .

Extreme story, even if you don't know anything about watches, if you continue to buy on the current coolness proposed by Bvlgari (limited collaboration model),

As a result, I think it will be a great collection.


Then, from here, we will introduce the “current coolness” proposed by Bvlgari with actual products.





Introduction of each series



First of all, let me introduce the lineup loosely.

mens

Octo BVLGARI BVLGARI


Women

serpenti BVLGARI BVLGARI



mens


Let's start with the collection of men's watches.

Octo


Octo
Let's start with Octo , which represents Bvlgari's men's watches.

Bvlgari watches have been based in Switzerland for about 40 years.
Today, we are based in three areas, including a wonderful factory that descends from the ateliers famous for luxury watches.

Map of Bvlgari production sites in Switzerland

Le Sentier, Saignelégier, Neuchâtel

For more information about this area, please refer to the "Fusion of Italian Design and Swiss Technology" that will appear later.


First of all, to confirm the lineup, Octo is currently classified into three series.


Finissimo
Octo Finissimo

Originale
Octo Originale

Rome
Octo Roma



When I introduce Octo, I have to talk about both the design side and the movement side.


octo design



Let's start with the design.
This is Mr. Fabrizio, the Bvlgari designer who designed the Octo.
Originally, he has a career as a car designer in Italy, and is a unique person as a watch designer.



※His belief is "How beautiful, simple and easy to use"
His policy is also strongly reflected in Octo.


First of all, let's talk about the background behind the birth of the unique octagonal design common to the series.

The existence of the city of Rome has a great influence on the basis of Bvlgari's design.

Rome is one of the most suitable cities for learning about beauty, with many buildings of all ages remaining in the city.



image of rome

image of rome


In order to match the elegant clothing that Italian men love,
Designed with an extra flat watch (ultra-thin watch) that fits under the sleeve of a shirt,
And I think that it is a watch that inlaid the beauty of Roman knowledge into this ultra-thin world.


Fabrizio's design drawing

Fabrizio's design drawing

Octo wearing photo

Octo wearing photo



I tried to summarize the points in terms of Octo's design.


    • Three-dimensional structure with 110 faces (Rome has 58 faces)

    • Adult sex appeal woven by light

    • Commitment to color

    • Feelings related to materials





Three-dimensional structure with 110 faces (Rome has 58 faces)



In fact, the Octo case consists of 110 complex facets .
Designs that make use of these many facets are the aesthetics of a Roman high jeweler.

In addition, despite the thin watch that records the world's thinnest record,
I am truly amazed by the splendor of the three-dimensional structure contained in the microscopic world .

Octo Finissimo with 110 intricate facets



Adult sex appeal woven by light



Let's take a look with interest at the indexes drawn on the original and Roman dials. (finissimo is different because it is a stamp)

In fact, the index is also made up of two parts that are polished in different ways.



The upper part has a satin finish (matte) and the lower part has a polished finish (glossy).

Finissimo index finished three-dimensionally

And the bottom part sticks out a little.

This is an important point.

The design is meticulously calculated so that when the light hits the corners of these protruding parts, they shine beautifully.

I want you to see this dial in a slightly darker place (tone down)!

This brilliance is not glaring, but shines like a diamond.

This is an idea that comes about because we have the technology to calculate and design light as a jeweler.

I am thoroughly particular about how to calculate the light and produce an elegant brilliance, such beauty.


Finishing the crown part

The crown also reflects our commitment to brilliance.

Despite being screwed in and having multiple protrusions, each one is very polished.

Both are designed to shine beautifully in a slightly dark place, but what kind of scene does a man need that glow?

For example, isn't it a presentation or a dinner scene?
I think men's wristwatches are also seen in business.


Presentation scene image in the dark

Dinner scene image


In presentations, gestures are also used, so you will move your hands a lot.

At such times, I think that the brightness of Bvlgari will convey a profound feeling to the people around you.

Isn't it nice to have a watch like this?

There are many wonderful watches that are purely technical, but I think this is the only watch that uses light to create an elegant glow .

Commitment to color


Octo colored dial
The obsession with beauty can also be seen in the Octo's colored dial.

Bvlgari is very particular about the number of times it is applied.

Octo has applied lacquer to the surface of the dial more than 15 times.

How lacquer is applied to the surface of the dial

How lacquer is applied to the surface of the dial


Even for a traditional Swiss brand, if you apply it 8 times, it will be a sufficient sales pitch.
Bvlgari spends more than double the time and effort of other companies to create a dial.

I think that the attitude of Bvlgari, which continues to pursue discerning colors regardless of cost, is because it is a super brand that knows true beauty .


Feelings related to materials



I think that thin watches made by general Swiss watch makers have the image of [matching a leather belt to gold or platinum], but wearing it will damage the leather belt, and in the first place, gold is soft and easily scratched.

When it comes to that, it's easy to just keep it in the case of the house .

However, since it's a luxury watch that you bought, you want to enjoy it every day, don't you?

Bvlgari's concept is, "Don't leave good things for special occasions, but use them everyday to enrich your life."

Under such a concept, I think that Octo is a bracelet type using titanium material .

By the way, Bvlgari titanium is gray!

Model using titanium material

It is clearly different from the titanium that everyone imagines.

Then why are you grey?

This comes from our commitment to coordination.

Italians and Westerners wear navy jackets for official announcements and presentations. (Though black is common in Japan.)

It is gray because it is a color that is easy to match with the navy jacket.


Finissimo in titanium gray with a blue suit

Finissimo in titanium gray with a blue suit


Of course, the Finissimo is thin, so it goes inside the shirt instead of the jacket.

Then, it becomes the contrast of "navy, white, gray" or "navy, blue, gray" .

navy/white/gray

navy/blue/gray


By making the titanium gray and giving it a different color , it brings out the fashion and elegance of the "coordination hem".

That's why the titanium is gray.

Even if you cut out one concept, it will make you excited! It's that kind of watch.





Next, let's talk about the Octo movement .

You may not have the impression that the movement is amazing because it is a jewelry brand,

It's quite a serious movement , and the more I know, the more I think , "I'll do it, BVLGARI."


Bvlgari watches moved their production base to Switzerland about 40 years ago,
Currently, we have bases in three areas, including a wonderful workshop that follows the flow of luxury watch maisons.

Scene at the Bvlgari workshop

Scene at the Bvlgari workshop


Especially the breakthrough after 2011 (vertical integration) is wonderful, and this Octo is also equipped with a masterpiece movement that uses all of Bvlgari's technology.

Bvlgari ultra-thin movement

Bvlgari is an ultra-thin field, and has won the thinnest record (world record) 6 times in just 6 years .








2014 Tourbillon (hand-wound) breaking record for thinnest BVL268
2016 Minute repeater breaking the thinnest record BVL362
2017 Automatic thinnest record update BVL138
2018 Tourbillon (self-winding) new thinnest record BVL288
2019 Chronograph GMT breaking record for thinnest BVL318
2020 Tourbillon Chronograph Breaks Record for Thinnest BVL388
2021 Perpetual calendar thinnest record update BVL305



It is a movement that ``embodies an attractive design'' that would make even an Italian fashion man groan. It has taken nine years to complete.

Movement blueprint

A craftsman assembling the movement

Parts that make up the movement

A craftsman assembling the movement

Parts that make up the movement

Movement CAD

*Pictured at the 2015 Bvlgari Factory Tour

Among them, the most representative one is the 3-needle type automatic movement "BVL138" .
I have summarized the main features.


    • Beautifully crafted finish

    • Platinum micro-rotor

    • chamfered bridge

    • Frequency




Beautifully crafted finish



Beautifully crafted skeleton caseback *Click to enlarge


The beauty of the decoration of the movement is also one of the important things in luxury watches.
This movement also uses two typical Swiss techniques.
Côtes de Genève decoration technique

Perlage decoration technique




What is the Côtes de Genève decoration technique?
It is a decorative pattern, and it is a wavy decoration added to the bridges and rotors of the movement. The motif is small waves crashing on the shore of a lake in Geneva, Switzerland.


Part finished with Côtes de Genève decoration



What is perlage decoration technique?
Perlage is a small circular streak pattern reminiscent of pearls, but in fact, this technique takes a lot of time and effort, but it is often applied in a hidden position (main plate of the movement). . With the BVL138, you can peek under the micro-rotor and through the gaps in the bridge. The decoration is quite difficult to understand unless you pay attention to it, but depending on whether or not there is perlage decoration on the exposed part of the movement, the sense of luxury will change greatly! It is one of the most important decoration techniques.
This is also done by hand by artisans, demonstrating Bvlgari's attention to detail.


Parts finished using the perlage decoration technique




Platinum micro-rotor (movement SS)


Platinum micro-rotor
When using a general self-winding rotor, the movement will inevitably become thicker.

The Octo was developed as an ultra-thin watch , so I think they came up with a design that included a micro-rotor that could be made even thinner.

However, the micro-rotor mechanism is very difficult for the creators...
It is truly a challenge to overcome difficulties .

I think that we were able to succeed here because the complicated watch workshop (former Daniel Roth & Gerald Genta) in Le Sentier is under our company.

By the way, the material of the micro-rotor uses heavy "Platinum 950" to increase the rotation efficiency.

I think that the idea of ​​using rare metals for these parts is also influenced by Bvlgari's traditional play with materials .

Also, if the rotor is made of platinum, the case is often made of the same material, such as platinum.

Isn't it unique to Bvlgari to come up with a proposal that goes beyond the general idea of ​​​​a platinum rotor in a titanium case?



Chamfered bridge (both bridges)



common single bridge common single bridge

Both bridges with chamfered finish Bvlgari BVL138


Another point that should not be forgotten is the use of a twin-bridge balance bridge in order to give the movement rigidity.

I am also very impressed with the fact that the material (titanium) and the movement are conscious of the rigidity of each, with everyday use in mind.



Frequency




6 vibration sound (low beat)

10 vibration sound (high beat)

Please listen to the sounds of clocks with different frequencies.

The movement beats 21,600 vibrations per hour.
It is a so-called 6-beat (low beat) model, and is often found in high-end mechanical watches.

The sound (kotchi-kotchi) when you put your ear close to the watch flows relatively slowly.

In general, it is said that high beat is easier to measure time accurately,

For that reason, it is said that the ability of the watchmaker will be tested because the low beat is difficult to adjust the time.

Isn't this a commitment unique to the movement developed by Le Sentier, which follows the flow of complicated watch maisons?


So far, we have introduced the design and movement of the Octo from two aspects.
The more I listen to it, the more I think it's the ultimate book that conveys the seriousness of Bvlgari .

















































BVLGARI BVLGARI


BVLGARI BVLGARI

This Bvlgari Bvlgari is a representative model of Bvlgari produced in 1977.

As I will introduce in the history of Chapter 3, the prototype is the first one produced as a gift for a special customer of Bvlgari .

At that time, I heard that there were pros and cons to the bold design with the brand name engraved on the bezel.

More than 40 years have passed, and as a result, the evaluation of Bvlgari Bvlgari has evolved into a watch with timeless beauty .

You can see the design sense unique to the world's highest brand here.

The current men's model is mainly based on the aluminum collection, and a new change has begun.



aluminum


BVLGARI Aluminum Advertising image at the time of launch Advertising image at the time of release

The birth of Bvlgari Aluminum in 1998 was a major turning point in watch trends, with two products that would go on to have a major impact on the market.

One is the origin of the big thick watch trend born from Panerai, which was revived at the Geneva Salon a year earlier.

SIHH & Baselworld (Geneva Salon)

And the other is that the birth of this aluminum leads to the present.
It is the source of the trend of combining cases and belts with different materials .

SIHH & Baselworld (Geneva Salon) BVLGARI Booth

Of course, there were products that combined rubber with stainless steel before that, but the combination of aluminum and rubber had an impact anyway!

With the breakthrough of this product, wristwatches combining different materials such as rubber with aluminum or titanium cases became a trend that continued for more than 20 years.

These two major trends were born from Italian brands who, oddly enough, love design.

And in 2020.
I am also looking forward to seeing how this watch, which has been reprinted in aluminum and has become even more sophisticated, will once again create an era.

From 2019 to 2021, each manufacturer has been reprinting successive famous machines and attracting attention.

I have the impression that the aluminum is also faithfully reproduced to the original design, but the current Bvlgari manufacturing technology has been added to it, and the texture has improved significantly compared to the old model.

It was just recently that a customer in his early twenties came to the store wearing an aluminum chronograph. is!

It's not the pretentious coolness of the early days, but a slightly more grown-up, elegant coolness .

I think that the fact that the texture has improved significantly is also connected to such elegance.
Bvlgari properly suggests the coolness of the present, which differs from era to era.

In 2021, in the aluminum series,
A limited edition model with the essence of boldness and playfulness like Bvlgari has appeared.

The collaboration model with Steve Aoki, who is active as a producer, DJ, and fashion designer, uses a “Super-LumiNova white dial” that glows in the dark. A bold design that shines in the club scene and adult social occasions.

BVLGARI BVLGARI ALUMINUM Collaboration model with Steve Aoki

Limited to 1,000 pieces worldwide, and limited to 200 pieces in Japan.
This daring collaboration model is a must-have product for this summer.





BVLGARI BVLGARI ALUMINUM 103539

BVLGARI ALUMINUM Watch 103539 Limited

Bvlgari aluminum Steve Aoki limited edition watch. Steve Aoki logo on white dial coated with green SLN.
Click here for product details













bulgari bulgari men



As a so-called successor model of 1977, there are very few types of current products.

I have the impression that there is a need for a little change compared to ladies.
It seems that aluminum will be reprinted and will change to a more sporty route .

Just like the collaboration model with Mr. Hiroshi Fujiwara, I was surprised to think that the color of the case and the NATO strap are exquisitely combined, and just by adding a twist, it can become so cool .





FRAGMENT x BVLGARI BVLGARI BVLGARI Japan limited model

BVLGARI (Bulgari) Bulgari Bulgari man watch 103443

"FRAGMENT x BVLGARI Bulgari Bulgari Japan Limited Edition" was created by bringing Hiroshi Fujiwara's innovative approach to the core of Bvlgari's watchmaking technology.
Click here for product details



To be honest, I also want this collaboration model.
I believe that Bvlgari Bvlgari, which is not a simple Dressucci , can have "current coolness" .














Women


Next, we introduce a women's watch collection with striking designs.

serpenti


serpenti

“Serpenti ” is an iconic collection representing Bvlgari with a “snake” motif.

Born in the 1940s, this model started with jewelry.

"Over 100 years of metal engraving technology" and "design inspiration unique to Rome"
Only with these two things will the collection be born.


What kind of image do you have when you hear the word “snake”?

Some people may have an image of it being a little scary, while others may think of the world of myths, such as messengers of the gods who control life.
In Japan, since ancient times, there is also a sublime image like a dragon god.

Looking around the world, the image of snakes has various meanings.
Wisdom, Rebirth, Enchantment, Eternity, Resurrection, Strength, Health, etc.

Various images of snakes

In the first place, it seems that it is worshiped as a "symbol" that has the meaning of good luck and amulet.

In addition, as if reflecting the trends of the times, the designs and materials of Serpenti have changed steadily over the years , and so many variations have been created so far.

The current Serpenti lineup is abundant, and there are various models with different bracelet shapes, leather belts, and materials.

Speaking of famous people, I sometimes see Ammika wearing Serpenti on TV. I think Ammika-san's inner charm and dignified personality are demonstrated, and it suits her very well.


There are three basics of Serpenti's lineup.

Tubogas
Serpenti Tubogas

Spiga
Serpenti Spiga

Seduttori
Serpenti Seduttori



First of all, from the latest collection "Seduttori" .

This watch, which has the meaning of “fascinating woman” , was originally released as a gold model.

A golden model from a top jeweler combines "extraordinary beauty" and "comfort to wear" .

When it comes to making watches out of gold and gemstones, nothing is more beautiful than that of a true jeweler. Jewelers understand everything about materials and use the best technology to bring them to a level of perfection that is several steps higher than watchmakers.
This Seduttori is also true, and it has a "special quality" that is unique to Bvlgari .

The main feature of the Serpenti is the new 33mm case .
There is no sense of volume like the conventional model, and by making it thinner, you can feel the ease of use and sophisticated beauty.

Pay particular attention to the "profile" .
You can see the polish and smoothness of the case, and the curves overlap like a mille feel, making it very elegant.


Profile of Seduttori

Red rubellite on Seduttori crown


The red rubellite (natural stone) applied to the crown is a round cabochon cut with the image of a Roman building, and the design is as beautiful as a pendant top.
This crown, which looks like jewelry, is made entirely of natural rubellite (tourmaline with a red pigment).

One theory is that red pigment is very rare in nature.

Tourmaline comes in a variety of colors, but among them, rubellite is the most expensive, and the fact that it can be used in abundance for the crown is a unique feature of Bvlgari.

この記事の監修者

山本 公一郎 資格: CWCウォッチコーディネーター 資格認定者
役職: EYE EYE ISUZU G-Time店長

大学を卒業後、外資系製薬会社MRを経て、アイアイイスズに入社。20年以上のキャリアを持ち、スイスの高級機械式時計からG-SHOCKまで、腕時計に関する幅広い見識を持つ。2019年より日本初となる、「ガーミンウォッチサロン」を同店舗内にてスタート。時計専門家の視点から、スマートウォッチについても的確なアドバイスを行い、今に至る。

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